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Prophecy Fungicide 10-12k sq ft

$45.00 *
SRP $52.98
You save $7.98
In stock
Delivery weight: 25 lb

Step 2: Weed & Feed 22-0-4 w/ Surge

$35.98 *
SRP $39.98
You save $4.00
In stock
Delivery period: 1-5 working days
Delivery weight: 40 lb

STEP #1: 12-0-4 Slow Release Fert. w/0.38%% Barricade

$38.00 *
SRP $39.98
You save $1.98
In stock
Delivery period: 1-5 working days
Delivery weight: 50 lb

Solu-Cal Enhanced GYPSUM

$34.98 *
SRP $39.98
You save $5.00
In stock
Delivery period: 1-5 business working days
Delivery weight: 50 lb

Step 3: 18-0-4 Fert. with .125% Dimension

$35.98 *
SRP $39.98
You save $4.00
In stock
Delivery period: 1-5 working days
Delivery weight: 50 lb

Solu-Cal Enhanced Calcitic Lime (50LB)

$20.00 *
SRP $24.98
You save $4.98
In stock
Delivery period: 1-5 working days
Delivery weight: 50 lb
* Prices plus sales tax, plus delivery

Step #1: 18-0-4 30%SCU w/.426% barricade OR 18-0-4 30%SCU w/ 1.03% Dimension (Apply March 15th - April 15th)

* Covers 10-12k sq ft per 50lb bag

* .426% Barricade is a high concentration to prevent crabgrass and other annual weeds from germinating

* 18-0-4 30% Slow release fertilizer keeps grass consistently green up to 6 weeks

* 3/4 lb of Nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft

* Also great time to apply Solu-Cal Lime (for Ph), Solu-Cal Gypsum (for clay soil), Solu-Cal Humic Acid (to add microbes improving soil),

Step #1 fertilizer with crabgrass control prevents crabgrass seeds and weed seeds from germinating before they take over the lawn. Barricade @ .426% concentration is the chemical used to prevent crabgrass and weeds. It is similar to "Holts" (Pendimethalin) but a newer, stronger and much more effective chemical used by professionals nation wide.  The slow release nitrogen gives the turf a nice consistant green color over a 4-6 week period, preventing burnout and stress on the roots for a more sustained root system, while the potash helps establish a strong root system. This is one of the most important steps to establishing a green weed free lawn; skipping this step results in a lot of crabgrass and weeds. This can also be applied with SoluCal Lime to sweeten the soil and make the nutrients more available to the turf, resulting in stronger roots and greener grass.


Step #2: 20-0-7 30% SCU w/Trimec post emergent weed control (Apply April 15th - May 15th)

(Recommended for yard full of weeds, otherwise just spot treat and move to Step #3)

* Covers 10k sq ft per 50lb bag

* TRIMEC kills broadleaf weeds on contact (Apply in morning, on wet grass, om a day without rain)

* Slow release fertilizer keeps lawn consistently green

* 3/4 lb of Nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft

Step #2 is a weed & feed that kills broadleaf weeds and fertilizes the grass. For this to efectively work it must be applied on wet grass for the chemical to kill the weeds, and it cannot rain for 24 hours so the chemical doesn't get washed off (early in the morning on a day with no rain). BUT depending on your lawn situation this may or may not be a necessary step. If you have a lawn full of weeds this is beneficial to knock out the weeds and green up the grass. If you apply step #1 on time and DO NOT have a yard full of weeds, we recomend keeping spray weed killer on hand to spot treat and moving on to step #3 in a few weeks (4-6 weeks after step #1) which will prolong the pre emergent and prevent late season crabgrass and weeds.


Step #3: 18-0-5 30%SCU w/1.03 dimension (Apply May 1st - June 15th)

* Covers 10-12k sq ft per 50lb bag

* 1.03 Dimension prolongs weed barrier and kills young crabgrass

* Slow release fertilizer keeps lawn consistently greem

* 3/4 lb Nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft


Neglecting Spring lawn care could end up not paying off for your lawn the rest of the year. The more you stay on top of your lawn the less work you will have to do the following season and overall throughout the year. You should do two good lawn cleanups a year, once in the Spring and again in the Fall. These are very important as it will keep your lawn clean and debree free. Leaving leaves and debree on your lawn for too long will hold moisture on the grass which can create fungus, mold, diseases, and overall a messy unhealthy lawn. So round up the family and do a spring and fall cleaning every year, or hire a professional to do the work for you.

Spring Lawn Care Tip #1: Raking

Raking will be your first task of spring lawn care. Okay, I can hear the groans coming from all lands near and far, wherever grassy carpets are cultivated: "But we already raked leaves in the fall!" Sorry, but raking is for more than just removing leaves: it's for controlling thatch, too. A thatch build-up of more than 1/2 inch is considered excessive.

Thatch is the reason why I recommend that, when you rake leaves in the fall, you make the effort to rake deeply. Don't just skim the surface so as merely to remove the leaves. A deep raking will remove thatch, too, allowing you to kill two birds with one stone. Even if you followed this advice in fall, I still recommend a spring raking: it will remove grass blades that died over the winter -- dead blades that are just waiting to become thatch.

But there's often another good reason for a spring raking. As you survey your lawn in spring, see if there are any matted patches, in which the grass blades are all stuck together. This can be caused by a disease known as "snow mold." New grass may have difficulty penetrating these matted patches. But raking will be sufficient to solve this problem.

Just when you should perform any of these spring lawn care tasks will depend upon the climate of your own region. But Mother Nature provides palpable cues in some cases. For instance, when you're pretty sure the snow season (if you have one) is over in your region, begin raking. Applying preemergent herbicides (see Tip #6) should be done sometime between the time the local forsythia bushes stop blooming and the time the local lilac bushes begin blooming.

Spring Lawn Care Tip #2: Check for Compaction

If your lawn is subjected to high levels of traffic year after year, it may eventually start to show signs of decline. In such cases, your lawn is probably suffering from compacted soil. For instance, the presence of moss signals compaction (among other things). You can get rid of it, but successful eradication begins with the recognition that moss shouldn't be treated as "just another weed," as I explain in my article on getting rid of moss.

Lawn aeration is the remedy for compaction. The good news is that lawn aerators can be rented at your local rental center.

The bad news is that the experts recommend postponing lawn aeration until fall. But if, during your "spring lawn checkup," you become aware of compaction, at least you can plan on setting aside some time in the fall to take care of it.

Spring Lawn Care Tip #3: Liming

Besides compaction, the presence of moss plants also signals acidity. But grass likes a neutral pH. You can solve this problem by liming your soil. But don't expect a quick fix: the effects of liming are slow to take place.

But first send a soil sample to your local county extension to determine the extent of your soil's acidity. The county extension will also be able to advise you on how much lime per square foot you'll need. Apply the lime using a fertilizer spreader (read my fertilizer spreader review if you're in the market for one).

But if your lawn has been doing fine and shows no signs of suffering from acidity, don't apply lime. Liming is only a corrective measure, not a preventive measure. A soil that is too alkaline will also cause your lawn problems, so too much lime is as bad as not enough.

Spring Lawn Care Tip #4: Overseeding

Is your lawn riddled with bare patches due to dog spots, heavy traffic or neglect? If so, you may need to apply grass seed to fill in those bare patches. This solution is known as "overseeding lawns." Apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer when you overseed. Five weeks after the grass germinates, apply a quick-release nitrogen fertilizer.

However, spring isn't the very best time for overseeding lawns. Fall is the preferred time, when the new grass won't have to compete with crabgrass (see Page 2), which is killed off by autumn frosts. So postpone overseeding until fall, unless your situation is dire.

Spring Lawn Care Tip #5: Fertilizing

Lawns can be fertilized organically by using compost and mulching mowers. But for those who prefer chemical fertilizers, Scotts provides a schedule for fertilizing lawns. Many experts, however, recommend a lighter feeding in spring and a heavier one in late fall for the types of lawn grasses known as "cool-season grasses." Too much fertilizer in spring can lead to disease and weed problems. And if you have, indeed, already fertilized in late fall, your lawn is still "digesting" that fertilizer in spring.

In addition to the above tasks of spring lawn care, don't forget weed control and making sure your mower is ready for the mowing season. These two subjects are covered on Page 2....

For those who prefer weed-free lawns, spring grass care is as much about weed prevention as it is about fostering healthy lawn growth. Novices are often surprised to learn that not all lawn weeds are battled in the same manner. Depending upon whether a weed is an annual or a perennial, you will use a preemergent herbicide or a postemergent herbicide against it (although landscapers commonly use both preemergent and postemergent crabgrass killers -- an indication of how tough that weed is to battle).

Spring Grass Care Tip #6: Applying Preemergent Herbicides

If you know that you have a problem with the annual weed, crabgrass, then fertilization in spring should go hand in hand with the application of preemergent herbicides. As their name suggests, preemergent herbicides address weed control not after the fact, but before their seedlings can even emerge. Preemergent herbicides accomplish this by forming something of a "shield" that inhibits seed germination. Don't undertake the core aeration task discussed on Page 1 after applying preemergent herbicides: to do so would be to "puncture" this shield, thereby decreasing its effectiveness.

Crabgrass begins its assault on lawns in spring, when its seeds germinate. In fact, my suggestion on Page 1 that overseeding be carried out in autumn, rather than spring, is based in part on the threat posed by a spring crabgrass invasion. "So why not just begin by killing the crabgrass first with a preemergent herbicide?" perhaps you ask.

Well, the trouble is that most preemergent herbicides work against not only weed seeds, but grass seeds, as well!

You can appreciate the dilemma here. Overseeding is incompatible with the application of most preemergent herbicides. Yet, faced with competition from crabgrass in spring, you may find it difficult to establish your new grass.

So while it's still possible to overseed in spring, it's simply easier to do so in fall. There will be no competition from crabgrass then, because the fall frosts kill off crabgrass.

If you must overseed in the spring, look for a product called, "Tupersan." Unlike other preemergent herbicides, Tupersan will not damage germinating lawn grass seed. But if you're committed to staying away from chemicals altogether in your spring grass care, postpone overseeding till fall.

Spring Grass Care Tip #7: Applying Postemergent Herbicides -- Or Pulling Weeds

Keep an eye out for the emergence of the perennial weed, dandelion during the spring season, unless you find the presence of their cheerful yellow flowers in your lawn desirable. At the very least, you'll want to snap off their flower stems before they produce seed. If you're more ambitious, you can dig them out by the roots. Spraying dandelion weeds with postemergent herbicides is more effective in fall than in spring. If you do choose to spray, select an herbicide for broadleaf weeds.

If you prefer weed control without chemicals and have consistently practiced organic landscaping, you can harvest these "weeds" as dandelion greens and eat them!

Besides proper spring grass care, there's more you need to do to get ready for a summer filled with lawn mowing. Don't neglect preparations concerning the lawn mower itself -- the subject of Page 3....

But your preparation for the summer lawn mowing season doesn't end with the spring grass care covered on Page 1 and Page 2. No other power equipment is as intimately associated with and essential to landscaping as is the lawn mower. You need to have one that will consistently get the job done without any hassles throughout the lawn mowing season. And you should also know how to use one to your best advantage.